Go Visit Hawaii

The Pololu Valley has to be in the top ten most beautiful scenes on the Big Island. You can drive right up to the look out as I described here. If you have about an hour and you are hankering for a hike, then follow the Pololu Trail down to the beach below.

The trail head begins at the end of the paved parking area at the lookout. This trail descends 420 feet along the face of a cliff. The trail can be slightly technical at points, so wearing proper hiking shoes is advised. We also brought our hiking poles which helped. The hike to the beach takes about 20 - 30 minutes. Do take your time and stop to enjoy the pretty views of the valley along the way.

Once you get down to the beach, you can admire the depth of the valley and the strength of the ocean pounding against the black sand beach. This beach is not for swimming, so don’t even think about taking a dip to cool off.

The Pololu Trail can be very slippery when wet and we know from experience. Just take a look at the photo on the left and you’ll quickly see why. Areas of the trail are simply steep sections of packed dirt. We were hoofing it as fast as we could on the way back up because we could see the rain headed our way. We didn’t make it off the trail in time, so we experienced how slick the trail can be with just a little bit of rain. To avoid rain, it’s best if you can time your visit for morning or very early afternoon.

The state only owns the land along the trail and down to the beach, so that is the only area open for public access. Any suggestion of hiking beyond the beach to the other valleys without a permit would be considered trespassing. I also believe that the October 2006 earthquake damaged the trails beyond the beach.

See more photos and a video of Pololu Beach

When you are in Hilo, don’t miss seeing Rainbow Falls. The river flows over the arch shaped rock. The rock has a cave embedded in it. Legend says that Kamehameha buried the bones of his father in this cave.

This waterfall is easy to access just off Waianuenue Avenue on the northwest side of Hilo. From Hwy 19 turn onto Hwy 200 and follow until you see a fork in the road. Stay right on Waianuenue Avenue following the signs to the Rainbow Falls Area. There is plenty of paved parking and a short paved path to see the falls. This is a popular spot, so if it seems crowded and a tour bus is there, just wait for a few minutes for folks to clear out.

Tomorrow, we’ll go further up the road to Pe’epe’e Falls and Boiling Pots. In the meantime, please enjoy this brief video of Rainbow Falls.

If you are driving in between Waimea and Hilo on Highway 19, then don’t miss a diversion up Highway 220. You’ll find Highway 220 between mile markers 13 and 14. This rewarding diversion is Akaka Falls State Park that showcases a beautiful 442 foot tall water fall.

To see this Akaka Falls, from the parking lot walk to the left. The 0.4 mile, paved path takes you through a lush rain forest and past a small stream with a small 15 foot waterfall. As you approach the waterfalls, you’ll hear it’s forceful flow before you get to the overlook. Then when you actually see it, you can just pause and admire this impressive sight.

At this park, there is also a smaller (100 foot) waterfall, the Kahuna Falls that’s inside the park. So, at this stop you can potentially see three waterfalls at one stop. (Note: at the present time, the path to Kahuna Falls is under repair and unavailable.)

See our video, to get a glimpse of Akaka Falls. Just click on the arrow.

If you go:

• The area around Akaka Falls is on the wet windward side, so it’s best to see this waterfall in the morning.
• Sometimes when it rains here a mist will roll in and block the view of the falls. If you have time, wait in your car until the rain lets up.
• If a tour bus load of people are there, just wait patiently for a few minutes and then they’ll be gone.
• Bring a rain jacket or umbrella in case you need it.
• To be on the safe side, you probably want to have mosquito repellent on.
• Be sure to lock your car doors.
• There are restroom facilities here at the parking lot.

You can find Akaka Falls marked on the Big Island our interactive Hawaii map.

About a year ago, I ran across a Coastal Living Magazine article about this great hike around Waipio Valley. I was intrigued by the sounds of this hike. When I was on the Big Island recently, I had to check out the hike for myself. So, what did I think of the guided hike? It was fantastic!

Now, I’m not normally one to pay for a hike, so I did search for free alternatives for hiking the Waipio rim. Though there are some websites that erroneously say you can hike the valley rim from White Road, the land owner has cut off access to that hike. The only way you can hike around the Waipio Valley rim without trespassing and getting lost is with Hawaiian Walkways. (They pay a “big fee” for a permit to hike on private land.)

After meeting at the Hawaiian Walkways office in quaint Honokaa town, we hopped onto a van for about a 20 minute ride through woods and unpaved and gated roads to the beginning of our 3.5 mile loop hike. These tours are scheduled in the mornings when the weather is more likely to be clear.

We walked through a Eucalyptus tree forest on our way to the first glimpses of the stunning Waipio Valley. Though the views of the one mile wide valley are impressive from the overlook off Hwy 240, the views along the hike offered a much different perspective that highlighted the six-mile depth and peace of the valley.

We skirted along a narrow path past more views of the valley, streams, foot bridges, waterfalls, wild ginger, hapuu ferns, and guava forests. We even got to pick a lemon guava off the tree and taste it. We also got to take a dip in a refreshing natural waterfall pool. By the way the word refreshing can also be defined as as freezing cold. The water was very cold, but I’m glad I braved it for this very unique experience! If you are looking for an idyllic rainforest hike with unbelievable views, then this hike is the one! (See all our photos from this hike.)

Tish (photo on the right) was our tour guide and she was very knowledgeable about the lush flora that grows around the Waipio Valley. We really learned so much about the cultural and practical significance of many plants and trees. Tish also taught us quite a bit of history and legends of the valley. We even learned stories about the Night Marchers (ghosts) of the Waipio valley.

The Hike Logistics

This moderately strenuous hike is more technical than physical. Hawaiian Walkways provides guava wood walking sticks, so that helps you to maintain your balance in some of the tricky parts. I would advise that you wear hiking shoes or hiking sandals for best stability

In addition to the walking sticks, Hawaiian Walkways provided:

• Water
• Snack
• Lunch (We stopped for lunch at a waterfall.)
• Cold drinks
• Lightweight backpacks to carry your lunch, water, and beach towel, etc.
• Rain gear

You should bring:

• Swimsuit - either wear your swimsuit or bring one with you. An outdoor “dressing room” is available to change into your swimsuit if you bring it.
• Towel for drying off after your dip in the waterfall pool.
• We brought our own mosquito repellent, though Tish did have some we could use. I’d recommend you be proactive and apply mosquito repellant before you get far into the hike.
• If you don’t have waterproof hiking shoes/sandals, then bring some reef shoes. The rocks around the waterfall area can feel pretty sharp on bare feet.
• Sunscreen
• Hat

The hike cost $95 plus tax per person. They take a maximum of 10 people on the hike. The hike is recommended for ages eight and up. For more information on booking this hike see the Hawaiian Walkways website.

Plan on 4.5 hours for the hike, lunch, swim. Also be sure to tack on your travel time too and from Honoka’a. We were told to allow one hour travel time from Waikoloa, though it actually took a little less time.

Can’t take the hike, but would love to enjoy some of the views? We took this brief video just for you!

For reference, we also considered the Hawaii Forest and Trail waterfall hike. The reasons we went with Hawaiian Walkways is that it’s the only hiking tour that provides views of the Waipio Valley from the valley rim and it was less expensive.

Have you hiked into or around the Waipio Valley? What was your experience?

Stargazing on Mauna Kea was very high on my list of things I wanted to do on my recent Big Island vacation. The experience is unique. Where else in the world can you go from sea level to nearly 14,000 feet above sea level in less than two hours? The change in landscape was surreal and dramatic. We drove from beaches and palm trees to pasture lands to weathered and worn snow capped cinder cones We went from wearing short sleeves to wearing arctic-type parkas. (You can see all 60 photos that we captured during our Mauna Kea tour.)

Here’s a video montage we put together:
I’ve put together these frequently asked questions and tips to help you plan your visit to one of the best stargazing places on earth.

When to Go?
If you really want to see as many stars as possible, aim to go on a clear and moonless evening. Now, I know that this may be easier said than done as the weather is unpredictable and you can’t always schedule your vacation based on the phases of the moon. Use this official Mauna Kea forecast to determine the best weather, sunset times, and moon rise times. When you take a tour, you’ll probably be stargazing from around 7pm to about 9pm, so try to choose a time when the moon won’t be rising during that time in order to see the maximum amount of stars.Even though I was on the Big Island for two weeks, I actually had a limited amount of days that I could schedule this tour. I didn’t want to schedule the tour for the first few days because, I was super anxious to get out to see the lava flow and because I knew I would be jet lagged and unable to stay up past about 8pm for the first few days. I wish I could have planned the tour better so that I could have gone up to Mauna Kea when the moon wouldn’t have been shining so early and so fully. Next time, I’ll plan more wisely.If you book your tour in advance and the weather looks crummy, ask your tour company if you can switch to another night.

Why should I go with a tour company? Can’t I just go on my own?
While it is feasible to go on your own up to the top of Mauna Kea, I don’t advise it if you are a tourist with a rental car. Here are a few reasons why I recommend you don’t drive it.

• Most rental car companies do not allow you to drive on Saddle Road. Though Saddle Road is paved, it can be a dangerous road. In fact, I’ve heard it’s one of the top 10 most dangerous roads in the US. I’ll have an upcoming post on Saddle Road.
• You should have a 4-wheel drive vehicle for driving up to the summit. In fact for the official summit tour provided by the Mauna Kea Visitor Center, you must provide your own 4-wheel drive vehicle. There are several unpaved miles on the road from the visitor’s center to the summit. Plus, in the winter, you may encounter snow and ice.
• At the summit, there is 40% less oxygen which can have a pretty severe and unpredictable effects on your mind and body. So, why not leave the driving up to a professional who knows the roads and knows how the oxygen deprivation affects them.

What to look for in choosing a tour company?
There are probably a half dozen or so companies who offer Mauna Kea sunset and stargazing tours. I chose Mauna Kea Summit Adventures for several reasons. They claim to have the most powerful telescopes of the tour companies and they use mini-bus with large window and more comfortable coach seating. All the other companies use standard vans with the bench style seating, which is fine for short trips, but the drive up to Mauna Kea and long and bumpy.

Other things to look for are:

• Are parkas and gloves provided?
• Are the tour guides trained and knowledgeable?
• Does the tour company provide dinner?
• Does the tour company provide stops to allow your body to adjust to the elevation changes?

How much do Mauna Kea sunset/stargazing tours cost?
Expect to pay anywhere between $160 and $200 with tax. We paid $197 per person including tax with Mauna Kea Summit Adventures. We could have saved 15% if we had booked our tour online and two weeks in advance. (See this reservation link for more details and black out dates.) We considered Hawaii Forest and Trail and they charge approximately $176 per person including tax.

Is the Mauna Kea visit safe for everyone?
No, it is not safe for everyone! I’ll quote the brochure provided by the Office of Mauna Kea Management.

Due to the effects of low atmospheric pressure on your body - including less available oxygen encountered at high altitude - it is strongly advised that individuals with the following categories not travel to the summit of Mauna Kea:

• Persons under 16 years of age
• Pregnant women
• Anyone with high blood pressure, heart or respiratory conditions
• Scuba divers with less than 24 hours after their last dive
• Anyone who has been drinking alcohol (consumption of alcohol is strongly discouraged on Mauna Kea)

If you have concerns, please check with your doctor.

What should I bring for this tour?
Wear long pants and sneakers or hiking shoes. The parkas are very warm, but you might want to wear or bring a long-sleeved shirt. You might also want to bring water and a light snack if you think you may get hungry.

If you have a very mild case of asthma, you might be permitted to go on the tour, but you must bring an inhaler. The way it was described to us is that people who have asthma are allowed to go as long as they haven’t been hospitalized for asthma in the past 2 years and they bring an inhaler. Be sure and check with your doctor and the tour company for advice regarding your own conditions.

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Have you been stargazing our Mauna Kea? What advice would you add?

During our trip to the Big Island we wanted to take a sailing tour.  At first we were torn between taking a whale watching tour and taking a sunset sail.  After considering our options, we decided that the sunset sail with Ocean Sports was our best option and best value.  For $100 per person, here’s what we experienced:

• Shuttle pick up from our resort to Kawaihae Harbor
• A generous open bar.  The friendly crew was very attentive and always asking if they could get another drink for us.
• A buffet dinner with salad, ribs, tropical chicken and potatoes. The food was actually fairly good considering it was buffet style served on a catamaran cruise.
• Whale watching.  As it is humpback whale season in Hawaii, we were able to see several whales up close and personal.  One whale actually decided to approach the boat and give us a gentle nudge.  It was hard to believe I was actually seeing what I was seeing.  Watch the video below to get an idea of what this experience was like.
• A beautiful Kohala Coast sunset and view of the Big Island.
• Champagne toast at sunset.
• Shuttle return from the harbor back to our resort.

Overall, we had a very nice tour and I would recommend Ocean Sports tours to my friends. 

Here are some points for you to consider when you are booking a sailing tour:

• If you are on the Big Island during whale season (officially between December 15th and April 15th) then it is very likely that you’ll see whales during a snorkel sail or sunset sail.  So, in effect, you get a free whale watching tour in addition to your snorkeling or dinner sunset sail cruise. Overall, it’s the better value, however you won’t receive the whale sighting guarantee that you would get with a designated whale watching tour.
• We were told that whale watching tours from the Kohala Coast area tends to be better than from the Kona area.  The reason that the Kohala coast is better is that the water is shallower near the shore as compared to the Kona area.  So, the whales like to nurse and raise their calves in the safer, shallower waters. 
• If you book more than one of Ocean Sports tours, you can ask for a 20% discount off the second tour.
• Another company from the Kohala Coast area that we also considered was Red Sail. 

Have you gone on a Big Island sail?  What was your experience?

If a Big Island luau doesn’t fit in your vacation budget, but you’d still like to hear live Hawaiian music or see a hula dance, then you’re in luck.  You can find some good free shows on the island.  Here’s where to find the some of the good free stuff:

• The Shops at Mauna Lani offers free shows every Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday evenings.  You can learn more about the various shows and times here. 
• The Kings Shops in Waikoloa have free evening shows Monday through Saturday.
• The Queens Marketplace in Waikoloa have several free or low cost Hawaiian craft making classes as well as free traditional Hawaiian entertainment.  See this link for their listings. 
• Many hotels offer free live music, usually in their lounge area. So ask your hotel what free entertainment they offer.

Here’s a short video sample of the type of free entertainment you might find.  This video was filmed at the Kings Shops stage in Waikoloa.

If you are looking for other budget-minded things to do on the Big Island, then don’t miss our suggestions for the best Big Island budget activities.   

It was humbling and mesmerizing experience to watch lava flowing into the ocean. I struggle to find the adequate words to describe it. If you are able to get out to the Big Island to see if for yourself, then I strongly encourage you to do so.

I wanted to share some tips for viewing the lava so that you can make the most of your experience. Here are my suggestions.

When to Go
Try as best as you can to see the lava around sunset and just afterwards. We were able to see the lava during daylight hours and then at sunset and about an hour afterwards. The sun’s rays wash out the incandescence of the lava, so you can’t really see as much of it in the daytime. We were fortunate enough to see the contrast of daytime viewing and nighttime viewing. There really is a huge difference in what you can see. If you go to see the lava just before sunset, you’ll be able to walk to the lava viewing point more safely in the daylight hours. Note that the current viewing point does not open until 2pm and closes at 10pm. Cars are not allowed to enter past 8pm.

Where to Find the Lava
At the present time, you’ll find the lava flowing at the end of Highway 130 on the East side, not far from Kalapana. You can use the links on this page to find the lava.

What to Wear
- One of the most important things to wear is shoes with a rugged sole and good gripping tread, such as hiking shoes. You’ll be trekking over very uneven surfaces (hardened lava) and a shoe with a firm or semi-firm sole will help you keep your balance. If you’ll be very close to the actual flow, a shoe with a good sole will protect your feet from the heat. I observed a few people wearing flip flops or fancy shoes and they had a very difficult time walking. I wore my hiking shoes and I was so glad I did.

- If you’ll be seeing the lava during day light hours then be sure to wear sunscreen and a hat or visor. Sunglasses are also helpful.

- You should try to wear long trousers to protect your legs if you fall. Hardened lava can be sharp as glass and quite dangerous if you fall. I wore a light weight hiking trousers.

- One reader, Ben, advises to wear gloves to protect your hands should you fall. Pick up a pair of work gloves from the dollar store.

What to Bring

- Water is a must, particularly if you’ll be going to see the lava in the daytime.

- Snacks or energy bars may come in handy. There are no restaurants in the area.

- Flashlight for finding your way in the dark. The county has installed some reflective poles and some yellow tape on the ground to help you navigate to and from the viewing point.

- Binoculars will help you get a closer view. You may be a couple of hundred yards or more from the lava.

- Cameras with well charged batteries and plenty of memory or film. Near the water, it’s quite windy, so if you have a tripod, do bring it

- A hiking stick or pole helps to keep you steady over uneven terrain.

- Sunscreen and lip balm with sun protection.

- Wet wipes. (There are port-a-johns, but no way to clean your hands.)

- If you have long hair, you may want to bring something to tie it back because it can be very windy near the ocean.

- Band-Aids and antibiotic ointment, in case you fall.

- Depending on where you’ll be going, you may want to have some mosquito repellant. After viewing the lava in the daytime, we walked back to our car to escape the sun and sit on cushioned chairs while we waited for sunset. We rolled down the windows and ended up getting some mosquitos in the car. Luckily we had our mosquito repellant with us.

Other Important Considerations

- The earlier you get there the better parking space you’ll get. The current lava viewing point opens at 2pm. We got there just shortly after it opened and had a prime parking space. As we left the parking area later in the evening. We noticed several people having to walk for at least a mile on a dusty, gravel road.

- Be aware of the many dangers of being around active lava.  (Mahalo to Angie for the link.)

- Obey all signs and instructions provided by the county employees. (Hey, how about thanking them for establishing this viewing point for visitors to see.)

- Lock your car doors and put valuables out of sight.

- If you are thinking of going to see the lava from the West side of Hawaii, then plan on about a 2.5 hour one way drive.

- Finally, enjoy this rare and awesome display!

Woohoo! Lava began flowing to the ocean again yesterday! Hawaii county is in the process of preparing a lava viewing point. That point is planned to be in place by tomorrow, per this KGMB video.

In the meantime, you can get an incredible view from the ocean on a boat tour. Lava Ocean Adventures runs tours to see the lava twice daily for morning and evening views. I spoke to Shane at Lava Ocean Adventures today and he said the lava is as good as ever and that tours are booking quickly. The tours last 2.5 to 3.0 hours and leave at 5:00a and 4:30p. The current cost of the tour is $199 per passenger, though that price may come down if they can arrange to use their larger boat. To get an idea of what the tour might be like, view their brief video ad.

When you’re exploring Hawaii Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island, don’t miss seeing Thurston Lava Tube. (A lava tube is a cave-like tube that lava flows through underground. It’s kind of like a pipe that the lava produces in order to move underground.) The photo above shows the entrance into Thurston Lava Tube. The park has placed lights inside the tube for you to explore the size and shape of the lava tube.

While you’re here, take a few moments to admire the giant Hapuu ferns in the rainforest setting. It’s an amazing lush green contrast from the barren fields of black lava that you see so predominately inside the park.

You’ll find Thurston Lava Tube just off Crater Rim Drive inside Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.